spreads (21).gif

The University of Copenhagen ocean project at Durras

You might notice something odd in the water on the main beach at Durras over the next two weeks. There is a group from The University of Copenhagen here gathering information. It is part of a study about waves and their effect on sand distribution.

Above: The intertidal instrument array being assembled on Durras Beach. Photos by Bay and Beyond Sea Kayak Tours

The aim of this project is to resolve a long standing question in the disciplines of coastal morphodynamics and engineering: How and why is sand transported onshore in the natural surf zone during low-moderate energy conditions? Since field studies in coastal geomorphology were initiated in the 1930’s and 40’s, it has been known that beaches undergo continuous cyclic changes of erosion and accretion. During stormy periods, beaches erode and sand is transported offshore from the beach and into the surf zone. Conversely, intervening fair-weather conditions are associated with onshore transport of sand, and beaches accrete again. Without this fair-weather onshore sand transport, beaches would not exist. you can read more of the project here

#Community #Durras #latest

COMMENTS : Due to the risks associated with comments from unidentified contributors that expose The Beagle to possible legal actions under the NSW Defamation Act 2005 No 77 anonymous or Nom de Plume comments will not be available unless the author is known to the editor by way of a verified email address or by association.

Others who provide their REAL NAME (first name AND Surname) and a verifiable email address (it won't be published) are invited to comment below. (yes it is a pain but please comply - it would be a  shame to see your comment deleted)

Those contributors KNOWN to us and verified may continue to use their First Name or Nom de plume for ease. The primary need for all of this is due to traceability should a legal action arise.

If you need anonymity email us via our normal or encrypted email accounts

Please note that if you are looking for a previous comment that is no longer visible please contact us.