You might notice something odd in the water on the main beach at Durras over the next two weeks. There is a group from The University of Copenhagen here gathering information. It is part of a study about waves and their effect on sand distribution.
Above: The intertidal instrument array being assembled on Durras Beach. Photos by Bay and Beyond Sea Kayak Tours
The aim of this project is to resolve a long standing question in the disciplines of coastal morphodynamics and engineering: How and why is sand transported onshore in the natural surf zone during low-moderate energy conditions? Since field studies in coastal geomorphology were initiated in the 1930’s and 40’s, it has been known that beaches undergo continuous cyclic changes of erosion and accretion. During stormy periods, beaches erode and sand is transported offshore from the beach and into the surf zone. Conversely, intervening fair-weather conditions are associated with onshore transport of sand, and beaches accrete again. Without this fair-weather onshore sand transport, beaches would not exist. you can read more of the project here